Creation

Cut slab

Each table starts out as a slab cut from a whole tree trunk. These are usually cut to 4m in length, are around 5-6cm thick, and are rough from the chainsaw or bandsaw mill.

The slabs are then stacked and dried, or 'seasoned', slowly and naturally, which helps prevent cracking and ensures they stay as flat as possible. Seasoning can take up to 2 years in the case of larger slabs. This can affect availability, but adds to the uniqueness of every piece

Slab flattening

Once dry, the slab is then 'flattened', or planed, with a special jig and router tool. This is a time-consuming and very dusty job!

If the slab needs resin infills, these may be done before or after flattening, depending on the condition of the slab. Once flattened, we usually allow the slab to sit for a few days to acclimatise, and ensure there is no twisting or 'cupping'. If so, the slab may need further flattening, or steel reinforcing bars added under the slab in hidden channels - this is usually only needed with larger tables.

Resin work

Any resin work will usually be completed at this stage. Slabs with holes or splits can usually be done in a single pour, but river tables may need two or even three pours. This is to avoid any risk of the resin leaking out (it's expensive!) and allows more control over the work. A new layer is added every 24-hours. We then allow the resin to sit for a few days to ensure full curing before any further work.

River tables require an individual mould being made, in which the two slabs sit, which prevents (usually!) any loss of resin, and helps ensure the work remains as stable and flat as possible, to minimise further flattening. The image on the left shows a small river side-table in its mould.

Sanding and finishing

Once the resin has cured and the slab is flat, the sanding can begin. Hours and hours of sanding...

The wood itself is sanded up to a medium/fine finish, sometimes depending on the type of grain. Resin is often sanded to a very fine 1000 grit.

Sanding is often the longest part, as we have to be sure all scratches are gone. It's at this stage that small pin-prick holes can be revealed which may require filling with resin or CA glue, be allowed to cure, and then re-sanding. Whew...

Lastly, the best part! Applying the finish. We use a hard-wax oil in a satin finish, which is both hard-wearing and easy to maintain. It usually only requires three coats, which can often be done in less than 48-hours. Once the last coat is applied, we allow several days for the finish to harden, then attach the legs, and the table is at last good to go!

We ensure that nothing is wasted in the making process - wood off-cuts are turned into accessories such as coat-hooks and key-holders, and really small bits and bags of sawdust all go to fuel the workshop woodburner in the winter!